Mount Tongariro was the objective, our preferred approach being that up the ridge that descends like a finger to the South Cirque (South Crater) entrance on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. From there, we’d have various options to return—via Central Crater, Blue Lake and the Crossing; west down Hardman’s Ridge; or back the same way.
All forecasts had suggested a bit of moisture sooner or later in the day. All predicted Westerlies picking up. But we’d decided to go and have a look anyway.
We set ourselves an 11am turnaround time, hoping the poor weather would arrive after midday. It was relatively mild and moist – misting – when we departed Mangatepōpō Hut at 6.30am. Conditions worsened with every step past Soda Springs, with rime forming on the track, alpine plants and rocks near the top of Devil’s Staircase. Only 10 metres below South Cirque, we knew couldn’t go on, the wet, icy wind now hounding us. We ducked behind lava rocks to layer up, fingers numbing and fumbling minutes later.
By 8.45am we were on our way down. We briefly diverted to Soda Springs to enjoy the spectacle of icicles in an otherwise snowless valley. After an early lunch at Mangatepōpō Hut we resolved to abort all further plans and head home, just 15 hours after arriving the night before.
Alas, we never got to play with our spikey toys, turning this ALP 1 adventure into a solid ALP 0. That’s not to say we wasted our time. If anything, this trip was a reminder—a reminder that it’s fine to “go see what it’s like”; of what “bad” really means; and, perhaps most importantly, that pulling the plug may be the sole safe, responsible option available.
